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Proper falafel can't be mechanised or mass-produced. Hoxton Beach's reputation depends on a handful of temperamental, food-obsessed individuals.

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imagePatrick Matthews has wanted to popularise falafel since he discovered them in Damascus when he was studying Arabic at university. He has written books on wine ('The Wild Bunch' was the 1998 Glenfiddich Awards Drink Book of the Year) and also made television features on food. Any caption suggestions for the pic on the right will be gratefully received.

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This is a fragmentary image of Kassem, our chef. Kassem used to make falafel at the legendary Solly's in Golders Green. He has since worked tirelessly on the formula for the perfect falafel. Kassem has resisted various attempts to mechanise his hands-on approach, though he has recently handed over the actual rolling of the sandwich wraps.

This is now done by Barbara, who works the night shift from midnight to 5am to make sure the sandwiches are fresh.

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